The One Piece That Completely Changed How I Think About Getting Dressed

So I’m at this wedding in Vermont last year—already running late because of course I am—when I realize I completely forgot to pack a tie. Just standing there in my hotel room in boxers and a half-buttoned shirt, staring at my suitcase like the tie might magically materialize if I looked hard enough. The wedding invite definitely said “cocktail attire” and mentioned ties specifically, so showing up without one wasn’t really an option.

Did what any desperate guy would do and started knocking on doors, hoping someone my age might have packed extras. Third door down, this dude Paul opens up and not only has spare ties but gives me actual options. While he’s laying out four different ties on his bed, I notice something hanging in his open closet that stops me cold.

“Yo, is that a shawl-collar cardigan?” I ask, momentarily forgetting my tie crisis.

“Yeah man,” Paul says, glancing back at this thick navy knit thing. “Best clothing purchase I’ve ever made, honestly. Wear it probably four days a week from October through April.”

I borrowed his burgundy knit tie (worked perfectly with my navy suit, thanks Paul), but that cardigan stuck in my head for weeks afterward. Here’s this regular guy—not a fashion person, just seemed like a normal dude—who somehow discovered what I now think is the most underrated piece in men’s wardrobes. And I mean seriously underrated.

We’re talking about a proper, substantial cardigan with a structured collar. Not some flimsy thing that falls apart after three washes, not those paper-thin “office cardigans” that provide zero actual warmth. I’m talking about a real cardigan that can replace a blazer, layer under a coat, dress up jeans, dress down chinos, and basically solve like 70% of those “what the hell should I wear to this?” moments that happen constantly.

After spending years writing about menswear and watching what actually works for real guys—not fashion week attendees or Instagram influencers, but regular dudes with normal lives—I’ve become totally convinced that this one piece is what’s missing from most American men’s closets. Maybe 10% of guys own one, and even fewer wear theirs regularly. It’s insane because it’s literally the bridge between looking sloppy and looking overdressed.

Let me break down why this specific piece deserves space in your closet, even if you’ve never considered it.

First thing: versatility is absolutely unmatched. A quality shawl-collar cardigan lives in that perfect middle ground between casual and formal, which is where like 80% of modern life actually happens. Think about how many events fall into that “nice jeans are fine but a t-shirt looks lazy” or “blazer would be overkill but I need to look put-together” category. For most of us, that’s basically every social situation.

The right cardigan handles all of this perfectly. Throw it over an oxford shirt with dark jeans and boots, and you’re good for dinner anywhere that isn’t super fancy, parent-teacher conferences, casual Friday at most offices, weekend parties, and probably a million other scenarios where guys either underdress or grab blazers that feel too formal.

My buddy Eliot runs a high school and swears by his rotation of three cardigans. “It’s like a sport coat without feeling stuffy,” he told me. “I need to maintain some authority with students and parents, but a blazer creates too much distance. The cardigan hits that perfect middle note where I look professional but approachable.”

This versatility thing extends to transitions throughout the day too. Office to drinks? Lose the tie, keep the cardigan. Casual day to evening event? The cardigan elevates your basic outfit without needing a complete wardrobe change. It’s that classic “third piece” that makes shirt-and-pants combinations look intentional instead of thrown together.

Second major advantage is seasonal adaptability, which is huge for most American climates. We deal with serious temperature swings both between seasons and within single days. The substantial cardigan absolutely crushes these transitional periods when a coat is too warm but shirtsleeves are freezing.

My friend Trevor teaches architecture in Chicago and used to hate spring. “March and April were torture,” he said. “Too warm for winter coats but too cold for just shirts. I was either sweating or shivering, sometimes both in the same day. Now I layer a cardigan under a lighter jacket and adjust as needed throughout the day.”

This layering capability is what separates good cardigans from cheap ones. A substantial knit works under sport coats, under overcoats, over shirts, over lightweight sweaters—creating multiple warmth options from the same core pieces. Winter? Wear it under your topcoat for extra insulation without bulk. Fall? Maybe it’s your outer layer over an oxford and t-shirt. Spring? Keep it at your desk for aggressive AC.

Third thing is comfort without looking like you’ve completely given up. We’ve all gotten more comfortable in our clothing choices over the past few years, which is mostly good but sometimes results in looking like you rolled out of bed. The substantial cardigan delivers serious comfort while maintaining structure and intentionality.

Marcus works in commercial real estate in Atlanta and used to immediately change into sweatpants when he got home. “My wife would complain because it meant we couldn’t do anything spontaneous,” he said. “Now I wear jeans and a cardigan instead of suits during workdays, and I’m comfortable enough that I don’t feel that desperate urge to change. Still look put-together if neighbors stop by or we decide to grab dinner.”

This gets at something fundamental about men’s style—the best clothing choices are ones you don’t have to think about much. You put them on, they work, they feel good, they’re appropriate for whatever happens. The substantial cardigan delivers on all these fronts.

So why don’t more American guys own this versatile piece? Few reasons, I think.

First, there’s this persistent association with either really old dudes or overly precious hipster types. Mr. Rogers on one end, coffee shop dwellers on the other. This completely ignores the middle ground where most of us actually live. A well-chosen cardigan on a regular guy just signals good taste and practical style sense.

My friend Ryan resisted for years. “I kept thinking of my grandfather in his saggy old man sweaters,” he admitted. When he finally tried on a properly fitting navy cardigan, his reaction was immediate: “Oh wait, this doesn’t look old at all. It just looks…good.”

Second, lots of guys have been burned by crappy versions. The market’s flooded with thin, shapeless cardigans that stretch out immediately, pill after three washes, and generally confirm that cardigans don’t work for regular dudes. These experiences create resistance to trying higher-quality versions that would actually work.

Third, retail presentation usually sucks for this garment. Department stores fold cardigans on tables instead of styling them on mannequins, making it impossible to envision how they actually work in outfits. Without seeing the piece properly styled, most guys can’t imagine how it fits into their wardrobe.

What should you look for? Several things separate quality cardigans that will actually enhance your wardrobe from disappointing ones.

Substantial weight is absolutely non-negotiable. The cardigan should have enough heft to provide real warmth and structure. When you hold it, it should feel substantial, not flimsy. Usually means wool, wool blend, or sometimes heavy cotton. Avoid anything that feels papery or super stretchy.

The shawl collar is crucial for versatility. Unlike regular collars that sit flat, the shawl collar frames your face like a jacket lapel, creating a more polished look. This detail is what lets the cardigan substitute for a sport coat in many situations. The collar should stand up properly when buttoned and lay smoothly when open.

Proper fit matters enormously. Should be trim enough to layer under a coat without bunching but roomy enough to accommodate a shirt and light sweater underneath. Shoulders should hit at your actual shoulders, not droop past them. Length should cover your waistband but not extend much beyond the bottom of your fly—too short looks shrunken, too long looks sloppy.

Details enhance versatility. Look for reinforced buttonholes that won’t stretch out, ribbed cuffs and hem that maintain their shape, and a placket that lies flat. Subtle details like leather buttons, elbow patches, or contrast stitching add character without looking costumey.

For maximum versatility, start with navy, charcoal, or deep burgundy—colors that work with basically everything else you own. Save patterns and brighter colors for your second or third cardigan, once you’ve confirmed how useful the basic version is.

Price points vary dramatically, but this is genuinely worth investing in. Cheap versions under $50 almost universally disappoint in materials, construction, and longevity. Sweet spot for quality versus value usually falls between $150-300, with diminishing returns beyond that unless you’re buying luxury materials like cashmere.

My personal favorite for value is Wallace & Barnes from J.Crew—hits that quality-price balance better than most. For investment pieces, Drakes makes exceptional versions worth their considerable price. Budget-conscious? Wait for end-of-season sales at Bonobos or Banana Republic, when their better sweaters often drop to around $100.

The real test of any wardrobe piece is how often you actually wear it, and this is where the substantial cardigan truly shines. After convincing dozens of friends, readers, and even reluctant family members to try this piece, the feedback is remarkably consistent: “I wear it constantly,” “It’s the first thing I reach for,” “Don’t know how I got dressed without it.”

My own navy shawl-collar cardigan from a small American maker has been with me for seven years, worn hundreds of times, shows no signs of giving up. It’s traveled from Chicago to Tokyo, from casual offices to holiday gatherings, from early fall through late spring. Worn it to business meetings and dive bars, parent events and dates, on airplanes and at outdoor concerts. Worth every penny of its $285 price tag many times over.

Even my style-resistant dad, who spent decades alternating between suits for work and sweatshirts for everything else, finally tried a substantial cardigan at my relentless urging. His review was succinct: “This makes sense. I get it now.” From him, that’s basically a standing ovation.

The final argument for this overlooked essential is how effortlessly it elevates the basics most guys already own. You don’t need to overhaul your entire wardrobe—same oxford shirt, same dark jeans, same boots or loafers you already wear will look significantly more intentional and put-together with this single addition.

If you’re still skeptical, here’s my challenge: try one for a month during fall or winter. Wear it at least twice a week in different contexts. See how many compliments you get, how comfortable you feel, how many situations it proves appropriate for. I’m betting it quickly becomes one of your most valuable wardrobe workhorses.

So thanks, Paul from the Vermont wedding, wherever you are now. Your perfectly chosen cardigan not only solved my immediate tie crisis but eventually influenced hundreds of guys through my subsequent evangelism for this underappreciated garment. Sometimes the best style discoveries happen when we least expect them—even when we’re running late to someone else’s big day.