Sartorial Picks

Coats & Jackets

Outerwear is where British men get the most daily use from any single category in their wardrobe and also where we see the most consistent underinvestment relative to how much it matters. Your coat is the first and often only thing people see when you walk into a room and it's doing significant work on your behalf before you've said a word or removed a layer. We've gone through phases of treating outerwear as purely practical and phases of caring too much about it and the truth is somewhere in the middle. You need something that actually handles the weather because this is Britain and the weather has opinions. But you also need something that works with your actual wardrobe rather than just sitting on top of it looking unrelated to everything underneath. The pieces in this section cover the full range from lightweight layers for transitional days to proper coats for when the weather stops being polite about it.

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Biker Jackets

The biker jacket is one of those pieces that looks effortless on some people and slightly like a costume on others and the difference is almost entirely about confidence and styling rather than the jacket itself. We went through a phase of wearing one and feeling like we were performing rather than just wearing a jacket before we figured out that the trick is to treat it as a straightforward outerwear piece rather than a statement. When you stop thinking of it as the interesting thing in your outfit and start thinking of it as just your jacket it suddenly starts working much better. We love a classic black leather biker with straight jeans and a simple white or grey tee for exactly this reason. The jacket does enough. Everything else can be quiet. It works in a way that gets more comfortable the more you wear it and a genuine leather one only gets better looking with age and use.

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Bomber Jackets

The bomber jacket is one of those things that looks very simple but requires getting a few details right to work properly. The length is the main one. It should hit right at your waistband or very close to it. A bomber that's too long loses the whole shape that makes it interesting and you end up with something that just looks like a short coat rather than an actual bomber. We love a clean minimal bomber in a neutral colour because it works with so many different outfits. Black or olive with dark jeans and trainers is the obvious combination and it's obvious because it works brilliantly. A slightly smarter bomber in a satin or suede fabric can also work surprisingly well with chinos and loafers for something that feels more considered than the standard casual version without tipping into trying too hard territory.

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Coats

A proper coat is one of those wardrobe purchases where getting it right matters significantly more than getting it quickly and we've learned this lesson the expensive way by buying something that seemed fine in the shop in October and then resenting it by December. What we look for when we're buying a coat is whether it works with the actual range of things we wear rather than just one specific outfit. Something that only goes with suits isn't a coat we're going to reach for very often. Something that works over a suit but also over weekend clothes is a coat we'll wear constantly. Fit matters enormously here too. A coat that's too short makes your legs look strange. One that's too long makes you look like you've borrowed someone else's. Somewhere between the hip and the knee depending on the specific style is usually the right territory. Spend properly on something in good quality wool and it'll last for a decade.

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Denim Jackets

The denim jacket is one of those pieces that feels like it should be straightforward but is actually surprisingly easy to get wrong mostly because of sizing. The specific fit that works for a denim jacket is quite particular. It should be slightly fitted through the body without being tight and the length should sit right at the waistband. Too large and it looks shapeless and unintentional. Too small and you look like you've borrowed something from a younger sibling. We love a classic indigo denim jacket over a grey sweatshirt with dark jeans for that tonal denim look that works really well in autumn. Over a simple tee in summer when you need something for the evening. It's also one of those pieces where the fading and wear genuinely adds to it rather than making it look tatty so a well worn one often looks better than a stiff new one.

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Faux Leather Jackets

Faux leather jackets have got significantly better over the last few years to the point where distinguishing them from the real thing at a glance is genuinely difficult with better quality options. We mention this because there used to be a reason to be snobbish about faux leather and that reason has largely disappeared. What matters now is pretty much what matters with any jacket — the cut and the quality of the finish. A well made faux leather jacket in a clean biker or bomber silhouette works just as well as a leather one for most purposes and obviously has the advantage of being considerably more accessible price wise. The main thing to avoid is anything that looks plasticky or has that particular sheen that cheap faux leather gets. A matte or semi matte finish is almost always the better choice and tends to age more gracefully when you're not working with actual leather.

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Jackets

The jacket category is a broad one and that breadth is actually the point because what we're talking about here is the layer that sits between your tops and your outerwear and it's a layer that most guys either get very right or almost completely ignore. A good mid layer jacket creates a way of dressing that's more interesting and more practical than just shirt plus coat. It gives you something to take off when you go inside without leaving you in just a tee. It adds structure to a casual outfit in a way that a hoodie can't quite manage. Quilted jackets for warmth without bulk. Harrington jackets for that clean classic casual look. Overshirts worn as light jackets when the weather allows it. The jacket layer is where a lot of the most interesting and versatile pieces in menswear live and it rewards paying attention to more than most guys typically manage.

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Leather Jackets

We've had a few leather jackets over the years and the one thing that's been consistently true across all of them is that quality matters more here than with almost any other piece of clothing. A cheap leather jacket looks cheap in a way that a cheap pair of chinos doesn't quite manage. The leather itself tells you everything. Good leather has a weight and a texture and a smell that synthetic alternatives simply don't replicate and more importantly it ages in a way that makes it look better rather than worse. A leather jacket you've worn for five years looks like it belongs to someone who actually has a life. The fit for a leather jacket should be slightly more fitted than you might initially think is comfortable because leather has almost no give and a jacket that fits correctly when it's new will soften and mould to your shape over time. One size up and it never quite looks right.

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