Sartorial Picks

Trousers

Trousers are the foundation that everything above the waist is building on and getting them right in terms of fit and appropriateness for the occasion makes an enormous difference to how the whole outfit reads. We've made most of the trouser mistakes over the years. Jeans that were too long and piled up around the ankles. Chinos that were too slim and restricted movement in a way that made sitting down an event. Suit pants that had been hemmed by someone who'd apparently measured only one leg. The trouser fit conversation has also evolved significantly over the last few years as the consensus has moved away from very slim cuts toward something with more ease through the leg and that evolution has actually been a good thing for most men because more relaxed cuts tend to be more flattering across a wider range of body types. This section covers everything from weekend jeans to formal suit pants and everything that sits between them.

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Black Jeans

Black jeans occupy a very useful position in a man's wardrobe because they do casual well but they also push convincingly into smarter territory in a way that indigo or distressed denim simply doesn't. With a clean minimal trainer or a simple leather shoe and a good shirt or knit the black jean creates a smart casual look that works in a wide range of situations where indigo denim would feel too relaxed. The fade resistance of the black matters more than it might seem. Black jeans that grey out quickly lose the quality that makes them useful because it's the depth of the black that gives them their smarter capability. A straight or slim straight cut is the most versatile interpretation and tends to work across the widest range of outfits without the specific styling requirements that wider or more cropped cuts sometimes need.

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Cargo Pants

Cargo pants have had a more significant style rehabilitation over the last few years than almost any other piece of clothing we can think of which is worth acknowledging because there was a period where wearing them felt like a brave choice that not everyone was going to understand. That period is over. A well cut cargo in a neutral like olive stone or black with a clean minimal upper half and decent footwear is a strong casual option that most men can wear convincingly without any particular style confidence required. The key things are keeping the silhouette from getting too wide and keeping the cargo pockets relatively flat and not overloaded because a cargo that's visibly carrying a lot of stuff in every pocket loses the clean quality that makes the current version work. Straight or slightly tapered is the cut we keep returning to because it works with the most footwear options.

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Chinos

The chino is the smart casual trouser and has been for long enough that it no longer needs defending or explaining. It works. It works in offices with a shirt and a blazer. It works at weekends with a knit and boots. It works in summer with a linen shirt and loafers. The reasons it works so consistently are the clean structure that holds its shape without being formal and the range of colours available that go with almost everything else in a man's wardrobe. Navy and stone are the two we'd have first because they're the most versatile and the easiest to build outfits around. Olive and tan are the next choices that add something without complicating your options. The fit has moved away from the very slim version that dominated for a while and the current sweet spot is a straight or slightly tapered cut that isn't trying to be skinny jeans and isn't so wide that it needs specific footwear to work.

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Distressed Jeans

Distressed jeans require a specific kind of confidence to wear convincingly because the deliberate damage to the fabric is the most obvious thing about them and that obviousness means the rest of your outfit needs to be doing something credible enough to contextualise it. A well distressed jean in a good straight or slim cut with a clean simple upper half and decent footwear reads as a deliberate casual choice. The same jeans with a similarly chaotic upper half and neglected footwear just looks like everything needs replacing. The quality of the distressing itself matters too. Good distressed denim looks like it happened through wear. Cheap distressed denim looks like someone attacked it with scissors and sandpaper which is because that's exactly what happened and it shows. We'd look for something where the fading and wear looks authentic rather than manufactured and keep everything else clean and minimal around it.

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Grey Jeans

Grey jeans are the understated alternative to black jeans that not enough men consider seriously and that's a missed opportunity because they offer something slightly different. Where black jeans push toward smart grey jeans stay more clearly in casual territory but do so in a way that feels more considered than straight indigo denim. They work particularly well with the kinds of neutral and earthy toned outfits that are doing a lot of the heavy lifting in casual menswear right now. With an off white or cream knit and simple leather footwear a grey jean creates a tonal outfit that looks very deliberate with almost no effort. The shade of grey matters. A mid grey is the most versatile. A very light grey is harder to keep looking clean. A very dark grey starts to approach the black jean territory and loses the specific quality that makes grey jeans interesting as a separate option.

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Jeans

Jeans are the trouser that most men wear most often and yet jeans are also the area where we see the most consistent mistakes in terms of fit and condition. A good pair of jeans that fits properly and is in good condition is a genuinely powerful casual wardrobe piece. A bad pair that's the wrong length or width or that's been washed so many times it's lost all structure does the opposite of what you want it to do. The fit conversation around jeans has moved toward a straight or relaxed straight cut after the long dominance of slim and skinny cuts and that movement reflects something real about what's working in casual menswear right now. A mid rise straight leg jean in a clean dark indigo or a true raw denim is our starting point for most men because it works with the widest range of tops and footwear and doesn't require specific styling knowledge to make work.

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Joggers

Joggers sit at the relaxed end of the trouser spectrum and what separates the ones that work stylistically from the ones that don't is almost entirely about fabric quality and cut. A cheap thin jogger in a synthetic fabric looks like what it is. A heavyweight cotton or French terry jogger in a clean tapered cut looks like a deliberate choice that happens to be extremely comfortable. The taper through the leg is important because a jogger that's too wide through the bottom looks sloppy in a way that undermines everything else you're wearing. The waistband and cuff situation matters too. Clean elastic waistband without too much gathering and a neat ribbed cuff at the ankle creates a silhouette that has enough structure to work with a decent top and clean trainers. Keep everything above the waist looking intentional and joggers pull their weight in a casual wardrobe.

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Leather Trousers

Leather pants are a significant commitment and we mean that in the best possible way. They're the kind of piece that when it works creates a very strong look with minimal supporting cast required and when it doesn't work it really doesn't work and there's no middle ground. The key is fit because leather has almost no give and a pair that's even slightly too tight creates discomfort and an unflattering silhouette simultaneously. A straight or slim straight cut in a good quality leather or high quality faux leather with a simple top and clean footwear is the combination we've found most convincing. Black is the obvious starting point because it's the most versatile and integrates most easily into existing wardrobes. Everything above the waist should be kept minimal. A simple tee or a fine knit. The pants are doing enough work on their own.

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Linen Trousers

Linen pants are the warm weather trouser that nothing else quite replaces because the breathability and the natural weight of linen in summer heat is genuinely superior to cotton alternatives and dramatically superior to anything synthetic. They do crease and accepting this rather than fighting it is the right approach because trying to keep linen perfectly pressed is a losing battle that ends in frustration. The relaxed quality that comes with linen including the natural creasing is part of what makes it feel so appropriate for summer. A straight or slightly wide cut in stone natural or white with a simple short sleeve shirt or a lightweight tee and loafers or sandals is the summer casual look that works in the south of France and works just as well in the south of England on the two or three days a year that actually justify it.

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Ripped Jeans

Ripped jeans share some territory with distressed denim but the ripped version is generally more dramatic in what it's doing to the fabric and therefore more demanding in terms of what the rest of the outfit needs to do to contextualise it credibly. The size and placement of the rips matter quite a bit. Small rips or tears at the knee are relatively easy to wear because they add detail without dramatically altering the silhouette of the trouser. Larger rips through the thigh area are more of a statement and require a more confident outfit to support them. Keep everything else clean and simple and treat the ripped jean as the most casual item in the outfit that everything else is working to contextualise rather than compete with. Quality of the denim underneath the rips matters too because a thin cheap fabric around an obvious tear looks unfinished in a way that a good quality denim doesn't.

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Skinny Jeans

Skinny jeans have had a complicated few years as the dominant silhouette in menswear shifted away from them and toward wider and more relaxed cuts. That shift is real and worth acknowledging but it doesn't mean skinny jeans have stopped working entirely. They work for men who are naturally lean through the leg and who feel comfortable in a close fitting silhouette. They work in certain style contexts where the references are more rock and roll or more fashion forward than mainstream casual. What's changed is that they're no longer the default and that means wearing them now reads as a more specific choice than it used to rather than just the thing everyone was doing. If you're someone who's always felt good in a skinny jean and hasn't been convinced by the case for wider cuts then wear the skinny jean. Style working for your actual body and your actual confidence is more important than following where the consensus has moved.

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Suit Trousers

Suit pants worn as separates rather than as part of their intended suit is a move that requires a bit of consideration because it can look intentionally smart casual or it can look like you've lost the jacket somewhere and haven't fully accepted it yet. The difference is mostly in how you style everything around them. A well fitted pair of suit pants in charcoal or navy with a clean knit and good leather footwear reads as a deliberate smart casual choice that borrows from formal dressing without committing to it. The same pants with a crumpled shirt and casual footwear just looks incomplete. The cut needs to be right for this to work. A flat front straight leg suit trouser with a clean break at the shoe is the version that separates most convincingly. Pleated suit pants require more confidence and more specific styling to work outside their intended formal context.

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Sweat Pants

Sweat pants exist at the very relaxed end of what we'd consider including in a style conversation and we include them here without apology because the reality is that most men own and wear them regularly and the difference between sweat pants that look like a considered choice and ones that look like you've given up is worth understanding. Fabric and fit are the two variables that matter most here. A heavyweight cotton or fleece sweat pant in a tapered cut with a clean elastic waistband and a neat cuff reads as intentional athleisure. A thin grey pair with a stretched waistband that's been washed until it's completely shapeless does the opposite. Keep everything above the waist doing something credible. A decent hoodie or sweatshirt in good condition with clean minimal trainers and the overall look has enough intentionality to work in casual settings without suggesting you've entirely stopped caring about how you present yourself.

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White Jeans

White jeans require a level of commitment to maintenance that not everyone is prepared for and we think it's worth being honest about this upfront rather than letting you discover it the first time you sit on something that shouldn't be sat on in white pants. If you're prepared for that reality white jeans are actually a strong summer option that does something different to any other colour in the denim category. They brighten an outfit in a way that works particularly well with navy and earth tones and they create a clean fresh quality in summer that darker colours simply can't replicate. A straight cut white jean with a navy or olive top and simple leather footwear or clean trainers is a very strong warm weather casual look. The fit needs to be right because white fabric shows the shape of what's underneath it more clearly than darker colours and a fit that's slightly off is more visible in white than it would be elsewhere.

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